On Pins and Needles Part 1

On Pins and Needles Part 1

On Pins and Needles Part 1
Are you “on pins and needles” when it comes to, well, pins and needles? Do you give them any thought at all? They’re our smallest tool but have the most important job. Without pins holding our fabrics in place, we’d have a terrible time creating our lovely projects.

 

left to right: metal, pearl, glow in the dark, plastic ball, no-melt flat, glass, quilting
When we head to the store to purchase pins the first thing we’re often drawn to is the wonderful colors and fun shapes. But to find the correct pin for the task, you’ll need to consider the pin’s anatomy and the project you’re working on.
Anatomy of the pin
Head should be picked based on the sewing task.
  • Metal Flat Head: Small solid metal pin. Great for handwork and pinning appliqué pieces.
  • Plastic Ball: Colored ball, pearl, and glow in the dark. Sized for many different purposes. Plastic ball may melt if pressed with high heat.
  • No-Melt Plastic Flat Head: Extra long, fine pin with a flat head for eyelet, lace, lofty and loose woven fabrics.
  • Glass Ball: Thinner, sharper pin with a glass head that won’t melt.
  • Quilting: Longer pin for holding thick layers.
Shaft diameter should not leave large holes in your fabrics.
  • .5mm - fine to lightweight fabrics
  • .6mm - medium-weight fabrics
  • .7mm to .8mm – medium to heavy fabrics
Shaft length should provide ease of handing for your project.
Short: 1/2” – 7/8” for detailed handwork and close pinning on appliqué and trims
Medium: 1 1/16” - 1 5/16” for multipurpose work
Long: 1 1/2” – 2” for quilting and thick layers
Point should glide easily through the fabric without snagging the threads.
Sharp for most woven fabrics.
Ball Point is slightly rounded for knits.
Proper Way to Pin
Oops, I could have “heard a pin drop” after that headline. How to pin will often trigger a debate much like “to wash or not to wash” fabric.
In class, I teach pinning parallel in the seam allowance when cutting a pattern. Pins will be close to the cutting line, but you won’t accidentally hit them and ruin your expensive scissors.

 


 

Pinning perpendicular for machine sewing works best. The fabric lays nicer, the pin can be placed right where it’s needed, you can sew right up to the pin before removing it, pins are easy to see and pull out, and if you accidentally miss a pin chances are it will clear the machine needle.

 

If you were to pin parallel for machine sewing you wouldn’t be able to sew close enough to the pinned seams before removing the pin. This would leave too much of a chance that the seams will shift before being sewn.

 

Pinning perpendicular for hand sewing allows the fabric to gather nicely in your hand. The pins fall gently into the folds of the fabric with less chance of stabbing you.

 


 

“To the Point”
  • Always toss out dull or bent pins.
  • Never sew over pins.
  • Don’t leave a pin in the fabric for long periods of time. This will create permanent holes.
Pin Worthy Fun
Until we meet again, I’ll leave you with a bit of fun. I think you’ll be amazed at how graphic designer Christophe Thockler used his pins and thread for this VIDEO! Favorite Place by Black Books

http://christophethockler.com/music-video-black-books-favorite-place.html
Always sew for fun! Carol Steely, FunThreads Designs
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